''Les coeffeurs de dames contre ceux des messieurs'' a translation

 Hello,

After visiting Colonial Williamsburg in the beginning of May, I decided to help the Wigmakers shop there by translating this text I appreciate about Hairdressers and Wigmakers in France. I could not suspect that translating it would result to seize more the various general 18th century knowledge that was implied in the text.

''Mentre chioma gentil volge in anelli...''
Charles Joseph Flipart
1748-1750
British Museum

The original text in French publish in 1769 can be seen on Gallica here by ''Marin'', a man I have no informations about.

It is a pamphlet of fourteen pages about why hairdresser are so much better than perruke maker to style the hair of woman. And why it is important that Woman choose Hairdressers over Wigmakers to arrange their hair. To be said, in  17th century and early18th century France, officially only Perruke Maker (Barbier-perruquier) had the right to touch, cut and style hair. By the time this pamphlet was published, hairdressers just has been recognized as an official trade, making the wigs makers share the market of cutting and styling woman hair with hairdressers.

Une boutique de perruquier
 Antoine Watteau
vers 1709
Département des Arts graphiques du Musée du Louvres

I will put the modernized french text in italique in the left side and the translation in ''quotation notes'' on the left side page by page as they appear on the original text. I tried to make it the easiest to follow.

First page

Les coeffeurs de dames contre ceux des messieurs 

''Women's hairdressers versus gentlemen's hairdressers''

SEXE enchanteur dont la puissance

''Enchanting SEX whose potency''

Soumet les Mortels & les Dieux, 

''Subjugates Mortals & Gods,''

Dames , qui régnez en tous lieux,

''Ladies, who reign everywhere,''

Et dont le despotisme en France

''And whose despotism in France''

Plus qu'en Turquie, est merveilleux,

''More than in Turkey, is wonderful,''

Pour faire pencher la balance

''To tip the balance''

En faveur d'un Cygne amoureux,

''In favor of a Swan in love,''

Contre un Vétéran d'élégance

''Against a Veteran of Elegance''

Qui rajeunit pour vos beaux yeux ,

''Who rejuvenates for your beautiful eyes,''

Sans mettre à profit sa dépense ;

''Without taking advantage of the expense;''

Mesdames , souffrez qu'en ce jour

''Ladies, suffer only on this day''

VOS Coiffeurs commis par l'Amour,

''YOUR Hairdressers committed by Love,''

Amour coquet sans indécence ,

''coquettish love without indecency,''

Seuls inventeurs de vos atours,

''Sole inventors of your finery,''

Réclament vos nouveaux secours

''Claim your new help''

'

Second page

Contre la Perruquière Engeance,

''Against the Wigmaker Brood,''

Qui prétend vous coiffer toujours.

''Who claims to always do your hair.''

Thémis, qui n'a d'autre toilette

''Thémis, who has no other toilet''

Qu'un Siège auguste où ses Arrêts 

''That an august Seat where its Judgments:''

Des Dieux mêmes sont les décrets ,

''Of the Gods themselves are the decrees,''

Par la voix de leur Interprète ,

''Through the voice of their Interpreter,''

Des fers des tyrans Perruquiers

''From the Irons of the Wig Maker Tyrants''

Nous a délivrés par Huissiers ;

''Delivered us by Bailiffs;''

Et notre victoire est complète.

''And our victory is complete.''

Le Prévôt , le Garde,  &  Syndic

''Provost, Warden, & Syndic''

Barberie & Perruquerie ,

''Barber & Wig Shop,''

Le Sergent de la Confrèrie ,

''The Sergeant of the Brotherhood,''

Ne se coifferont plus du tic  ,

''Will no longer wear tics,''

D'encoffrer notre coifferie,

''To enclose our hairdressing,''

Et chacun fera son trafic :

''And each will do their traffic:''

Or , ayant les têtes des Dames

''Now, having the heads of ladies''

A notre disposition,

''At our disposal,''

Bien mieux que celles de nos femmes

''Much better than those of our women''

Qui coiffent à discrétion ,

''Who style at discretion,''

Nous autres experts en coiffure ,

''We hairdressing experts,''

Quand votre empire nous rassure ,

''When your empire reassures us,''

Mesdames , nous vous demandons

''Ladies, we ask you''

L'ordre & la marche de frisure.

''The order & the march of curling .''

Un nouveau goût nous attendons 

''A new taste we expect,''

Où l'art surpasse la nature.

''Where art surpasses nature.''

On vous a fait des faux cheveux,

''We made you fake hair,''

Des Favoris pour vos oreilles,

''Side whiskers for your ears,''

Qui vous font goûter les aveux

''Which make you taste the confessions''

Des Conteurs de tendres merveilles ;

''Tellers of tender wonders;''

Third page

Abbés, Financiers généreux;

''Abbots, Generous Financiers;''

Vos toupets sont hauts d'une toile ;

''Your forelocks are as high as a canvas;''

Nous y mettons chaux & ciment.

''We put lime & cement in it.''

Le clocher de Georges d'Amboise

''The bell tower of Georges d'Amboise''

Menace moins le firmament ;

''Less threatens the firmament;''

En tuyaux d'orgue l'on vous donne

''In organ pipes we give you''

L'air de Cybelle , Porte-tours

''Cybelle's Allure, Tower Carrier''

En tête , en guise de couronne.

''On the head, as a crown.''

La nouveauté séduit toujours ;

''Novelty always seduces;''

Entre vos boucles élégantes

''Between your elegant curls''

Folâtrent les badins Amours ,

''The frolicsome Loves flirt,''

Se balancent sur les flottantes :

''Swing on the floats:'' (locks)

Un Dédale a moins de détours ,

''A Daedalus has fewer detours,''

Que ces chevelures magiques ,

''Than these magic hairs,''

Ces petits canons & ces piques

''These little cannons & these pikes''

Braqués,  pointés par Cupidon , 

''Aimed, pointed by Cupid,''

Qui se fait un double brandon 1

''Who makes himself a double brandon''1

Des yeux ardents de nos pratiques.

''Ardents eyes of our practices.''

Sera-ce un pétulent Barbier ?

''Will it be a petulant Barber?''

Par état l'écho du quartier,

''By state the neighborhood echo,''

Jaseur , conteur impitoyable,

''Pratler, merciless storyteller,''

Vêtu comme fiacre. . .  à la diable ;

''Dressed as a cab. . . to the devil;''

Osera-t it jamais porter

''Will it ever dare to wear''

Sa main savonneuse , indiscrète ,

''His soapy, indiscreet hand,''

Sur une féminine tête ,

''On a feminine head,''

Que les Grâces font respecter ,

''Which the Graces enforce,''

Fût-ce celle d'une Grisette,

''Were it that of a Grisette,''

Quand on fait assaut de chignon,

''When we assault a bun,''

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Note personnelle: j'ai cherché et je ne trouve pas la définition du mot bradon. Il pourrait venir de la même famille que brader, verbe transitif signifiant se débarasser d'un article à bas prix ou de livrer sans contrepartie un patrimoine qu'on a le devoir de sauvegarder. Ce mot viendrait du néerlandais braden signifiant rôtir puis détruire. 

1. Personnal note: I can not find the definition of the french name ''bradon'' . It looks like being of the same family of the verb ''brader'' meaning to sell off for very little price.

Fourth page

Dans une galante conquête ,

''In a gallant conquest,''

La moindre Nymphe vaut Junon ;

''The least Nymph is equal to Juno;''1.

Junon fut-elle plus coquette ?

''Was Juno more flirtatious?''

Pour nous Ministres de toilette ,

''For us Toilet Ministers,''

Mesdames, quel plus beau destin !

''Ladies, what a more beautiful destiny!''

Nous raccommodons au matin

''We mend in the morning''

Les dérangements de la veille.

''The disturbances of the day before.''

Sous le peignoir , Eglé sommeille 

''Under the wrapper, Aegle slumbers''2.

L'écaille nous tombe des mains.

''The scale falls from our hands.''

Mais deux petits Jumeaux lutins

''But two little pixie twins''

Font que le diable nous réveille.

''Make the devil wake us up.''

Coiffeurs , sans être libertins ,

''Hairdressers, without being libertines,''

Ont toujours la puce à l'oreille,

''Always have a flea in their ears,''3.

Ornant ces chefs-d'oeuvres divins,

''Adorning these divine masterpieces,''

les braver , ce serait merveille,

''to brave them, it would be marvellous,''

Les Coiffeurs ne sont pas des saints.

''Hairdressers are not saints.''

Mais l'on connait notre élégance

''But one knows our elegance''

Que n'auront jamais les Barbiers,

''What the Barbers will never have''

Fussent-ils Jurés Perruquiers,

''Were they wig maker jurors,''4.

Premiers Nouvellistes de France :

'' Premiers Trendsetters of France:''

On remarque avec quelle aisance

''We notice how easily''

Un beau Coiffeur parle de tout,

''A handsome Hairdresser talks about everything,''

D'habits, d'ouvrages de bon goût, 

''Of clothes, of works, of good taste,''

D'esprit, de musique & de danse ,

''Of spirit and music & dance,''

Des jeux de Nicolet sur-tout.

'' Nicolet games, above all.''5.

Thoré sur ses Fêtes Foraines ,

''Thoré on his Fairgrounds,''

Changeant ses feux , la consulté ,

''Changing her lights, consulted her,''

Et les flammes ultramontaines

''And ultramontane flames''

---------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Juno was the Roman goddess who protected the nation as a whole but also kept special watch over all aspects of women's lives. She is often thought of as the Roman version of the Greek goddess of love and marriage, Hera.

2. Aegle was the goddess of radiant good health. She was an attendant of her father, the medicine-god Asklepios 

3. ''Avoir la puce à l'oreille'' is a french idiom meaning to be alert to the emotions or news the speaker might have, being attentive. The literal translation is kinda weird: Having a flea to the ear. Idioms are hard to translate.

4. According to the ''dictionnaire de l'Académie Française'' all masters of a guild had to swear to become a master therefore they are sworn wig maker, worn tailor... And the masters that are designed to make respect the rules and law of the guild are also called sworn wig maker. In this case, it could be both.

5. I have no idea what are Nicolet games. For me Nicolet is a town close to the place I live now, which is named after a guy ''Jean Nicolet'' who has drown into the river and gave his name to the river and later the town.

Fifth page

Dont l'Art est ici transporté;

''Of whose Art is transported here;''

Et rend tout Paris enchanté ;

''And makes all Paris enchanted;''

Tant de merveilles seraient vaines 

''So many wonders would be in vain''

On n'admirerait point sans lui

''We would not admire without him''

Les lumineux Ruggieri :

''The Luminous Ruggieri:''1.

Historiographe des Belles ,

''Historiographer of Beauties,''

Il sait la nouvelle du jour,

''He knows the news of the day,''

Le Dictionnaire des Ruelles ,

''The Alleys Dictionary,''

Tous les marchés qu'a fait  l'Amour 

''All the markets that Love has made''

Soit avec un Duc de Finance ,

''Either with a Duke of Finance,''

Un talon rouge de la Cour,

''A red heel of the Court,''

Ou quelqu'Etranger d'importance ;

''Or some Stranger of importance;''

Sur l'épée & le manteau-court ,

''On the sword & the shortcoat,''

Son babil n'est jamais à court 

''His babble is never short''

On sourit à sa médisance,

''We smile at his slander,''

Ses propos font divins, exquis ;

''His words are divine, exquisite;''

Tournant sur l'axe des fleurettes,

''Turning on the axis of the flowers,''

Tel que nos sémillans Marquis ,

''Like our enchanted Marquis,''

C'est lui souvent qui met à prix

''He is often the one who puts a price on''

Des Vulcains nouveaux les aigrettes,

''New Vulcans the sparks egrets''2.

Les complaisances de Cypris,

''The complacency of Cypris,''3.

Et tant de sourdes amourettes

''And so many deaf love affairs''

Dont il a les menus profits.

''Of which he has the smallest profits.''

Mesdames, vous rendrez justice

''Ladies, you will do justice''

A notre ardeur pour vous servir;

''To our eagerness to serve you;''

Si nous employons l'artifice,

''If we use artifice,''

Ce n'est que pour vous embellir.

''It's just to make you look better.''

Sans fronder nos Soeurs les Coiffeuses

''Without criticizing our Sisters the Hairdressers''

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. The Ruggieri brothers is an Italian family of pyrotechnicians that arrived in 1739 in Paris and commenced their career of pyrotechnician to the King Louis XV.

2.Vulcan is, in Roman religion, god of fire, particularly in its destructive aspects as volcanoes or conflagrations. Poetically, he is given all the attributes of the Greek Hephaestus. 

3. In French, Cypris is another name for the goddess Venus.

Sixth page

Qui se donnent des airs penchés

''Who give themselves leaning airs'' 

Et des grâces majestueuses

''And majestic graces''

Nous ne serions pas si fâchés,

''We wouldn't be so angry,''

Qu'elles fussent moins envieuses

''If they were less envious''

D'aller sur nos petits marchés

''To go to our little markets''

Aux enchères voluptueuses.

''To voluptuous auctions.''

Une Etrangère ne fait pas

''A foreigner does not make''

Sur les remparts le moindre pas 

''On the ramparts the slightest step''

Que nos soeurs n'en soient enquêteuses.

'' That our sisters would not investiguate.''

Un élégant peigne en leurs mains

''An elegant comb in their hands''

Se change en joli Caducée,

''Changes into a pretty Caduceus,'' 1.

Les coeurs féminins sont humains ,

''Feminine hearts are humane,''

Une Coiffeuse est si rusée. ...

''A Hairdresser is so cunning. ...''

''Eh bien , que pense t-il de moi ,

''Well, what does he think of me,''

Lindor dont tu parles sans cesse ''

''Lindor of whom you talk incessantly''

''Madame, sa noble tendresse

''Madam, his noble tenderness''

Ne peut vous inspirer d'effroi,

''Cannot but inspire you with awe,''

II vous offre son pur hommage.''

''He offers you his pure homage.''

Comment me trouve-t-il ?  ''au mieux ,

''How does he find me? the best ,''

A miracle, & sans persiflage,

''Miraculous, & without mockery,''

II proteste que vos beaux yeux. . . .''

''He protests that your beautiful eyes. . . .''

Est-il riche ? ''Il donne équipage 

''Is he rich? He gives trapping''

Maison montée & pour raison ''

''House finished & for reason''

L'aimable petite maison.

''The cute little house.''

Achève ton accommodage. . ..

''Complete your styling. . ..''

Ainsi nos Soeurs , dans ce canton ,

''Thus our Sisters, in this canton,''

Font plus d'un galant personnage ,

''Make more than one gallant personage,''

Coiffant les Dames du bon ton ,

''Styling the ladies of good taste,''

-------------------------------------------------------

1. A caduceus is a representation of a staff with two entwined snakes and two wings at the top.

Seventh page

Et les Nymphes du bel usage ;

''And the Nymphs of beautiful custom;''

Officières de Cupidon 

''Officers of Cupid''

Et Faiseuses de mariage

''And wedding makers''

Par devant le Dieu du plaisir 

''Before the God of Pleasure''

Et son Confrère le Désir,

''And his colleague Desire,''

Notaires anciens de Cythère 

''Ancient Notaries of Kythera''

Les privilèges de nos Soeurs,

''The privileges of our Sisters,''

Donnés par l'Amour & sa Mère ,

''Given by Love & his Mother,''

Bravent les Perruquiers censeurs,

''Brave the censoring wigmakers,''

Et vû leur auspice salutaire,

''And in view of their auspicious usefulness,''

Nos droits en deviendront meilleurs ;

''Our rights will become better;''

Or nous devons les laisser faire.

'''Therefore we have to let them be.''

Mais que des Barbiers mal-adroits,

''But only clumsy barbers,''

Pour nous ravir ces mêmes droits ,

''To deprive us of these same rights,''

Fondent sur nous en vrais Corsaires ,

'' Fall on us like true Corsairs,''

Ils n'entendent pas les affaires ,

''They don't hear the business''

Thémis leur donne sur les doigts :

''Themis gives them on their fingers:''1.

Frais & dépens font leurs salaires ;

''Costs & expenses make their salaries;''

Et l'Art n'étant plus aux abois,

''And in dire straits Art no longer exist,''

Nous en coiffons mieux mille fois ,

''We do hair a thousand times better ,''

Ces têtes errantes, légères,

''These wandering heads, light,''

Qui tournent comme moulinets ,

''Which spin like pinwheels,''

Têtes de vieilles Etrangères,

''Heads of old foreign women,''

Aux crins durs, aux rampants toupets

''With hard hair, with crawling forelocks''

Que le peigne n'exalte guères ,

''That the comb hardly exalts,''

Cheveux de champêtres fermières,

''Hair of country female farmers,''

En manière de bois taillis ;

''In the manner of coppiced wood;''

Nouvellement dans ce pays

''New to this country''

-----------------------------------------------------------------

1. In the Greek mythology, Themis is the daughter of Gaia and Ouranos, the goddess of the Law. The use of Themis let think that there has been legal actions by the hairdressers community against the wigmakers

Eighth page

Avec leur beau petit Vicaire,

''With their handsome little Vicar,''

Qui prit Saint Denis pour Paris ;.

''Who took Saint Denis for Paris;.''

Y perdit même son Bréviaire,

''even lost his Breviary there,''

Tant ses yeux étaient éblouis... . 

''His eyes were so dazzled. ''

Nous pourrions livrer quelques têtes

''We could deliver some heads''

Aux fers des Barbiers nos rivaux ;

'' To the Barbers irons our rivals;''

Des vieux crins qu'ils soient les bourreaux;

'' Of old manes let them be the executioners.''

Mais aux chevelures jeunettes

''But to young hair''

Sont dûs nos peignes, nos ciseaux »

''Our combs, our scissors are due.''

Armes puissantes des Toilettes.

''Powerful dressing weapons.''

Eglé, la minaudière Eglé ,

''Aegle, the Aeglé who make small ways to please,''1.

Dont la tête est si douloureuse,

''Whose head is so aching,''

Et le cerveau si mal réglé,

''And the brain so ill-adjusted,''

Essuierait une crise affreuse !

''Could suffer a terrible crisis!''

Et mortellement vaporeuse»

                                                                                                                 ''And deadly vaporous”''

Si l'humide main d'un Barbier 

''If the wet hand of a barber''

Fût-il André le Perruquier (a.),

''Were he André le Perruquier (a.),''

Dont la muse est encor fameuse 

''Whose muse is still famous''

( C'est toujours odeur savonneuse  )

''(It's still a soapy smell)''

Si cette roturière main

''If this commoner hand''

Osoit toucher le noble crin

''Dare to touch the noble hair''

De la prude vertigineuse.

''Of the exalted prude.''

Pour des cheveux de qualité

''For quality hair''

Il faut une main ouvrière ,

''You need a qualified hand''

Qui dans un cas de rareté ,

''Who in a case of rarity,''

(a) Voyez sa belle Tragédie du Tremblement de

terre de Lisbonne.

''(a) See his beautiful Earthquake Tragedy

of Lisbon.''2.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

1.Aegle is the daughter of Asclepio and the goddess of magnificence and splendor in Greek mythology.

2. This historical event took place in November first, 1755. It basically destroyed Lisbon entirely and killed a big part of the city. Attributing that unfortunate event to an incompetent Wigmaker called André is mean to say the least.

Ninth page

Par connoissance familière 

''By familiar knowledge''

Substitue à la quantité

''Substitute the quantity''

Manquante au-devant, au derrière ,

''Missing in front and behind,''

Où le crâne est en nudité,

''Where the skull is naked,''

Une architecture factice,

''A fake architecture,''

Un massif crêpé , cimenté ,

''A creped, cemented mass,''

Et que l'art corrige le vice ,

''And that art corrects the vice,''

De la nature l'injustice:

''Of natural injustice:''

Un Barbier s'en est-il vanté ?

'' Has a barber boasted about it?''

Les blonds cheveux de Berenice

'' Berenice's blond hair''

En Astres seroient-ils changés ,

''In Stars would they be changed,''

Si les Barbiers s'étoient chargés

''If the Barbers were charged''

D'en bâtir le bel édifice . . .

''To build its beautiful edifice. . .''

Ah ! sans doute, que de tout temps,

''Ah! without doubt, that from time immemorial,''

Pour ranimer ses tendres flammes,

''To rekindle its tender flames,''

II fut des Coiffeurs importants,

''There was important hairdressers,''

Et fur-tout des Coiffeurs de Dames.

''And most of all Ladies Hairdressers.''

Sexe charmant, vous sçavez trop

''Charming sex, you know too much''

Combien notre art vous est utile ;

''How useful our art is to you;''

On nous voit vous suivre au galop

''We are seen following you at a gallop''

Aux champs , à la Cour , à la Ville 

''To the fields, to the Court, to the City''

Une coiffeuse est moins agile ,

''A woman hairdresser is less agile,''

Ne pouvant même aller le trot :

''Unable even to trot:''

Car elle est souvent femme-fille 

''Because she is often woman-girl''

N'importe, elle est de la famille,

''It doesn't matter, she's family,''

Et seuls nous soutenons l'assault

''And we alone suffer the assault''

De votre humeur, de votre bile.

''Of your mood,  of your bile.''

Un peigné vif, un fer trop chaud,

''A brisk comb, an overheated iron,''

Tenth page

Une papillote indocile,

''A rebellious papillote,''1.

Nous coiffent du nom d'imbécile 

'' Style us with the name of imbecile''

Bourreau, c'est votre dernier mot 

''Executioner, it's your last word''

Et nous d'un petit air tranquille

''And we with a littlequiet air''

Nous chevretons un Vaudeville 

''We jump a Vaudeville''

Une Bourbonnaise, & bientôt

''A Bourbonnaise, & soon''

Hors d'embarras, quand la Soubrette

''Out of embarrassment, when the silly Maid''

Est souffletée à la toilette ,

''Is  slammed away of the toilet,''

Nous avons fait bien plus d'un saut.

''We have made much more than one leap.''

Chez la future Mariée,

''At the home of the bride-to-be,''

Voyez l'allure d'un Coiffeur.

''See the allure of a Hairdresser.''

C'est un aimable persifleur ,

''He's a pleasant joker,''

Dont la langue est bien déliée.

''Whose tongue is loose.''

Coiffant une fille d'honneur,

''Styling a maid of honor,''

Fille d'Orangère-Fruitière,

''Daughter of Orangère-Fruitière,''

Qui pourtant n'en est pas plus fière

''Who, however, is not more proud of it''

Quoiqu'elle épouse un Procureur

''Although she marries a procurator''

Aux Consuls, & que son grand frère

''To the Consuls, & that her big brother''

Soit Brigadier d'une barrière

'' Is Brigadier of a barrier''

Son Coiffeur la met en humeur ;

''Her hairdresser puts her in a good mood;''

De Vadé parlant le langage

''Of Vadé speaking the language''2.

Chez les gens de goût en usage,

''Used among people of taste in use,''

La Luronne en rit de bon coeur :

''La Luronne laughs heartily:''3.

Le lendemain du mariage

''The day after the wedding''

Si l'on coiffe le Procureur

''If we hairdress the Prosecutor''

En Ménêlas , Epoux sauvage,

''In Menelaus, savage Bridegroom,''4.

C'est d'après l'avis du Coiffeur ,

''It is according to the opinion of the Hairdresser,''

Dans le femelle Aréopage ,

''In the female Areopagus,''5.

Galant & disert Rapporteur,

''Gallant & eloquent Reporter,''

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. A papillote is a piece of paper or taffetas inside which a strand of hair is placed to protect if from the heat of irons. Here the French description.

2..Jean-Joseph Vadé is a French chansonnier and playwright born in 1719. He published a serie of fables that were not as known as the La Fontaine ones but had some reputation during his time. What earned Vadé to be best known for being the creator of the poissard genre which he invented after several trials to more serious theater pieces.

3.Luronne is the feminine word for a person being easily happy.

4. Melenaus in Greek mythology, king of Sparta and younger son of Atreus, king of Mycenae; the abduction of his wife, Helen, led to the Trojan War. During the war Menelaus served under his elder brother Agamemnon, the commander in chief of the Greek forces.

5. The Aeropagus is a hill of government in  Ancient Greece used to refer to a governmental assembly of persons.

Eleventh page

Pour nous , Mesdames, quel honneur 

''For us, ladies, what an honor''

Vainement un Barbier se forge

''In vain does a barber forge''

Des prétentions de valeur ,

''Some pretensions of worth,''

Étant Étuviste-Baigneur ... .

''Being Etuviste-Baigneur ... .''1.

Lorsqu'il prend les Gens à la gorge ,

''When he grabs people by the throat,''

C'est un affront à la pudeur ,

''It's an affront to modesty,''

Aujourd'hui vertu de rigueur

''Today the virtue de rigueur''

Parmi les filles & les femmes ;

''Among girls & women;''

Voilà pourquoi, sensibles Dames,

''That is why, sensitive ladies,''

Les Gens à rasoirs vous font peur.

''People with razors scare you.''

D'entre vous plus d'une Eloïse

''Of you more than one Eloise''

Craint tout pour son cher Abélard

''Fears everything for her dear Abelard''2.

A qui l'on fit une sottise

''To whom we style impertinent''

Pour avoir été trop gaillard

''For being too gay''

Dans une amoureuse surprise.

''In a loving surprise.''

Laissons le rasoir à l'écart.

''Let's put the razor aside.''

Mesdames , parlons de notre Art.

''Ladies, let's talk about our Art.''

Marchand prône sa marchandise.

''Merchant promotes his merchandise.''

Nous donc qui devons notre état

''We, therefore, who owe our state''

A la belle moitié du monde ,

''To the beautiful half of the world,''

Au Sexe tendre, & délicat,

''To the tender and delicate Sex,''

Qui ne veut qu'on coupe , ni tonde... .

''Who doesn't want us to cut or mow...''

Nous vous supplions tous en Corps ,

''We beg you all in Body,''

Chères Divinités visibles ,

''Dear Visible Deities,''

De nous garder de tous Recors

''To keep us from all deputies''

Qu'enverroient les Barbiers terribles

''That would send the terrible Barbers''

Chez vous, pour nous mettre dehors.

''To your house, to kick us out.''

Vous n'entendez pas qu'on vous rase 

''You don't want us to shave you''

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Some of the members of the guild of ''Barbier-perruquiers'' (Barbers-Wig makers) were hosting bathhouses. When so, they were called ''baigneur-étuvistes'' according to M. de Garsault in this book of 1767 about wig makers.

2. Abelard and Heloise are an iconic famous couple from the Middle Ages

Twelfth page

Vos ordres sont que vos cheveux

''Your orders are only your hair''

Soient du sommet jusqu'à la base

''Whether from summit to base''

Un petit Atlas sourcilleux.

''A fussy little Atlas.''1.

Un Coiffeur répond à vos voeux ;

''A Hairdresser responds to your wishes;''

Docile à vos bruyans caprices ,

''Docile to your noisy whims,''

La toilette & ses exercices,

''The toilet & its exercises,''

Et la ruelle & ses malices ,

''And the alley & its tricks,''2.

Un Coiffeur n'a pas d'autres jeux:

''A Hairdresser has no other games:''

Les Barbiers seroient trop heureux

''Barbers would be too happy''

De partager nos bénéfices ;

''To share our profits;''

Mais ils ont les rasoirs contre eux,

''But they have the razors against them,''

Et les rasoirs sont maléfices.

''And razors are hexes.''

Or , Mesdames, vous daignerez

''Now, ladies, you will deign''

Protéger notre ministère ,

''To protect our ministry,''

Le moindre coiffeur de Cythère

''The lesser hairdresser of Kythera''

Ne poudroit pas fur les dégrés

''Couldn't powder on the angles''

L'Amour, les Grâces, ni leur Mère.

''Love, the Graces, nor their Mother.''

Ici le Barbier - Perruquier

''Here the Barber - Wigmaker''

Ne poudre que sur l'escalier 

''Only powders but on the stairs''

Tandis qu'en un lieu solitaire,

''While in a lonely place,''

Sans jeter de la poudre aux yeux,

''Without throwing in the eyes,''

Comme à Paris c'est l'ordinaire,

''As in Paris it's the common way,''

Pour imposer à qui mieux-mieux,

''To impose on whoever one met,''

D'une ingénieuse manière ,

''In an ingenious manner,''

NOUS VOUS prodiguons la poussière

''WE provide the dust for YOU''

Blanche , brune , jonquille, enfin ,

''White, brown, daffodil, finally,''

Celle propice à votre teint.

''The one that suits your complexion.''

C'est toujours à votre toilette

''It's always at your toilet''

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. In Homer’s Odyssey, Book I, Atlas seems to have been a marine creature who supported the pillars that held heaven and earth apart.

2. The alley ''ruelle'' in french can design the space between the bed and the wall. 

Here is the 1740 definition of ''ruelle'' of the dictionnaire de l'Académie Française 

Ruelle, Signifie aussi, L’espace qu’on laisse entre un des côtez du lit, & la muraille. Il n’y a pas assez de ruelle. Mettez ce fauteuil dans la ruelle.

On dit fig. qu’Un homme passe sa vie dans les ruelles, qu’il va de ruelle en ruelle, pour dire, qu’Il est souvent chez les Dames & qu’il se plaît dans leur conversation. On dit de même, qu’Un homme brille dans les ruelles, pour dire, qu’Il brille dans l’entretien des Dames.

Alley,  Also means, The space left between one side of the bed, & the wall. There aren't enough alleys. Put that chair in the alley.

We say fig. that a man spends his life in the alleys, that he goes from alley to alley, to say, that he is often with the ladies & that he enjoys their conversation. It is said in the same way, that A man shines in the alleys, to say, that He shines in the maintenance of the Ladies.

I do not know if and what is the English equivalent of that kind of ''alley''.

Thirteenth page

Que notre main prompte & discrette

''That our prompt & discreet hand''

Vous obéit soir & matin.

''Obeys you evening & morning.''

II est de votre honneur , Mesdames ,

''It is of your honor, ladies,''

De faire honorer vos Coiffeurs

''To honor your Hairdressers''

De nous sauver en corps , en âmes

''To save us in body, in souls''

Des fers de nos persécuteurs ;

''From the irons of our persecutors;''

Heureux les protégés des Dames,

''Happy are the protégés of the Ladies,''

Malheureux leurs contradicteurs !

''Unhappy their opponents!''

Remplis de la douce espérance

''Filled with sweet hope''

que vous prendrez notre défense

''that you will come to our defense''

Contre le rasoir rigoureux

''Against the rigorous razor''

Qui change le plus vigoureux

''Who changes most vigorously''

En être de peu d'importance,

''To being of little importance,''

Que l'ordre à mettre à vos cheveux

''That the order to put to your hair''

Sera de notre compétence,

''Will be within our competence,''

Nous chargeant de vos billets doux

''Loading us with your love notes''

Et d'assurer les rendez-vous 

''And to make sure appointments''

Mieux que la Poste Parisienne

''Better than the Paris Post Office''

A l'Amour d'annoncer l'ancienne,

''To the Love of announcing the ancient,''

Et d'amuser l'hymen jaloux;

''And to amuse the jealous hymen;''

Mesdames , il dépend de vous

''Ladies, it's up to you''

Qu'en ses mains un Coiffeur vous tienne;

''If a Hairdresser holds you in his hands;''

Car les Coiffeuses, entre nous,

''Because the lady Hairdressers, between us,''

N'ont pas droit sur nos droits d'aubaine ;

''Are not being allowed our boon rights;''

En François, en Grec , en Latin,

''In French, in Greek, in Latin,''

Féminin n'est pas masculin.

''Feminine is not masculine.''

A nos Soeurs, sans faire de peine ,

''To our Sisters, without pain,''

Que chacun ait son compte : enfin

''Let everyone have their due: finally''

Fourteenth page

Le nôtre sera de conclure

''Ours will be to conclude''

A mériter le libre état

''To deserve the free state''

Que les Reines de la nature

''That the queens of nature''

Nous donnent en ce beau climat.

''Give us in this beautiful climate.''

Parlez au charmant Magistrat

''Talk to the charming Magistrate''

Qui régit cette Capitale ,

''Who governs this Capital,''

Son coeur est noble & délicat. 

''His heart is noble & delicate.''

Quand une belle bouche étale

''When a beautiful mouth spreads''

Ses droits pour faire des heureux 

''His rights to make people happy''

Elle a pour elle hommes & Dieux ,

''She has men and gods on her side,''

Et Thémis n'est pas sa Rivale.

''And Themis is not her Rival.''

FIN.

Lu & approuvé ce 21 Mars 1769. MARIN.

END.

Read & approved this March 21, 1769. MARIN.

-----------------------------------------------------------

If we believe how the hairdressers described the work of wigmakers on woman head, the result would always end like this:

Satire de James Bretherton
1787
Collection of the British Museum

I really hope this article could be of some interest for people studying hairstyle and wigmaking.

I want to deeply thank Cathrine Davis for the lecture and correction. Your help is really appreciated.

Mlle Canadienne

Pulling your hair out because of a word... La cadenette: specific hairstyle or generic term

Hello!

This article is a little like my article about the ''pet-en-l'air'', it is about a word that has many unclear definitions:  ''la cadenette''. This is a French word and I do not know the English equivalent. If you know, please leave a comment!

When we were preparing our first conference about 18th century men's hairstyles,  this word  was a source of interrogation : what is  ''la cadenette''?

In the ''L'Art du perruquier '' of M. de Garsault, ''cadenettes'' are mentioned describing wig hairstyles and natural hairstyles.

Extract of L'art du perruquier
By M. de Garsault
1767
Source: Gallica

Men's fashion natural hairstyles include ''bourses'' (hairbag), ''cadenettes'' and ''cadogan''.


The ''catogan'' is well described and explained,  the ''bourse'' has visual and lexical descriptions in engravings and dictionaries, the ''cadenette'' remained a mystery to me.

For M. de Garsault, this is a wig with two ''cadenettes'':

Extract of L'art du perruquier
Planche II, H; Perruque à deux cadenette
By M. de Garsault
1767
Source: Gallica

To have more information about the word, we looked for it in 17th and 18th century dictionaries for  descriptions.


''Cadenette'' is missing into the Richelet's Dictionnary of 1680.

Into the Dictionnaire de Furetières de 1690 (found on Gallica),  this is the definition:

''Cadenette s. f. Grande moustache, poignée de cheveux qu'on laissait croitre autrefois du côté gauche tandis qu'on tenait les autres courts. La mode de cadenettes a été fort longtemps en vogue''

Homemade translation:

''Cadenette. Long mustache, bunch of hair that long time ago we used to have long on the left side when all others were short. The ''cadenette'' fashion has been there for a long time''

The ''Académie Française'' dictionaries have almost identical definitions between the edition of  1694 and 1762.

''Cadenette s. f. Longue tresse, moustache qui tombe plus bas que le reste des cheveux. Autrefois, on portoit des cadenettes''

(édition de 1694)

Homemade translation:

''Cadenette. Long braid, mustache that  falls lower than the remaining hair. Long ago, we were wearing cadenettes'' (edition of 1694)

In the description of 1762, the words ''moustache'' (mustache) and ''autrefois'' (long ago) are gone.  More details (in French) in this web search about dictionaries  of previous centuries.


Because the definitions that we had found were not like the description of M. de Garsault, we decided to not put an emphasis on that word during the first conference in 2018.

This illustration fits with the definition M. de Furetière gave in his dictionary.

Portrait of a ''Prince in full-length'' described by Gallica as wearing a long ''cadenette''
From the Collection of Roger de Gainières (1642-1715)
Source: Gallica

Alas, during the 2018 conference, a man wanted to know more about ''cadenettes''. At this time, I had not done this research yet and the question was beyond my field of knowledge.

Time passed but the question was still there. What is a ''cadenette''? Various examples of hairstyling were called a '' cadenette''.

Most examples that I have found is locating the ''cadenette'' at one or both side of the head, in front of the ears, like in the dictionary definition of M. de Furetières.



In the historical notes of the patterns of ''La Fleur de Lyse'', the ''cadenettes'' are two braids of the hair in front of the ears.  Illustration by Delphine Bergeron.

Illustration of ''cadenettes''
Illustrator Delphine Bergeron
Extract of historical notes of :Petit Habit du soldat français
Fleur de Lyse
With the gracious permission of Suzanne Gousse

For the great reenacting group Les Mousquets du Roy, the ''cadenettes'' are strands of hair struck into ribbon in front of the hair.

A french soldier of 1690, with winter clothing.
Crédit photo: Ed Read
Les Mousquets du Roy
With the gracious permission of David Ledoyen

Soldiers of ''troupes de la Marine'' of 1690
 Les Mousquets du Roy
With the gracious permission of David Ledoyen

For others, the hairstyle that I call a rattail is a ''cadenette''.

Detail: Le repas de chasse
Artiste: François Boucher
1735
Exposed at Musée du Louvre

Can it be that a ''cadenette'' is not a specific hairstyle and is more a generic name? Can it be that the definition changed over time like happens to many others words? Can it be that the definition is dependant on the context?

I came to a conclusion after searching on Gallica and BANQ - that a ''cadenette'' is like a braid, a generic word not related to a very specific hairstyle.

For this article, only sources from 17th and 18th century were selected.


According to the Petit dictionnaire de la cour et de la ville, written by Jean Marie Bernard Clément, published in London in 1788, it is Henri D'Albret, Seigneur de Cadenet,  who invented the ''cadenettes''. Earlier in 1750, Gilles Ménage, said that the inventor of the ''cadenette'' was Honoré D'Albert. Even the historical sources are not giving the same name for the inventor of the infamous hairstyle! Who can we believe?

Extract of Dictionnaire étymologique de la langue françoise
by Gilles Ménage
1750
Source: Gallica

The ''cadenettes'' in historical translation dictionaries 

I was amazed to see that the book that helped be the most with that name were translation dictionaries. The first I encountered was a three language dictionary between French, Tatar and Manchu.

Extrait du Dictionnaire Tartare-Mantchou-François
Par Louis Langlès
1789-1790
Source: Gallica

In that dictionary, a word is described as making a braid and as making a ''cadenette''.

Another dictionary is relating the braid and a ''cadenette'', and it is translating ''Langue-d'Oc'' to French.

Extract of dictionnaire Languedocien-François,
contenant un Recueil pratique des principales fautes que commettent,
dans la diction et la prononciation françoise,
les Habitants des Provinces Méridionales,
autrefois connues sous la dénomination générale de la Langue-d'Oc
By Pierre-Augustin Boissier de Sauvages
1785
Source: Gallica

This source is better because the relation between the ''cadenette'' and a braid is more clear.

Because those sources are late compared to the time frame I chose, I looked for the contexts  when that word was used into published books of the 17th and 18th century. 

The ''cadenettes'' in a military context

Extract of  Cassations de soudrilles
des Oeuvres du Sieur de Saint-Amant
By Marc-Antoine Girard de Saint-Amant
1642
Source: Gallica

This first text is from the 17th century. It is a parody of what military men can/have to do when peace is signed. In the beginning, each paragraph is devoted to a specific military job: Valets, sergeants, signs, lieutenants, captains, drums... The ''cadenettes are associated to the grade of Captains but there is no indication of where the cadenette is sitting on the head. Unfortunately, this is the case in most of texts that contain the word ''cadenettes''.

Extract of Règlement provisionnel pour le service de l'infanterie et de la cavalerie en campagne
By the Secrétariat d'État à la Guerre
1744
Source: Gallica

This text is more official, being a regulation written by the ''Secrétariat d'État à la Guerre'' (War Secretary) in 1744. Here the ''cadenettes'' are associated with the grade of soldiers that are assigned to guard, their sergents would have checked that their ''cadenettes'' are tied, their gaiters put on, the hats dusted and their weapons functional...

Extract of Code Militaire, ou compilation des ordonnances des rois de France concernant les gens de guerre
Tome quatrième
By M. de Briquet
1761
Source: Gallica

The version illustrated here dates from 1761, but the same order appears as soon as the first compilation des ordonnances de 1728. This extract is about guidelines for order lines that sergents must maintain over theirs soldiers: the beds have to be done before 9 AM, the soldiers have to be clean before leaving their barracks: hands and faces washed, hats dusted, cravats put on, hair brushed and put in queue or in ''cadenette''. Here the ''cadenette'' is an alternative to the queue, which I suppose to be the modern equivalent of a ponytail.

Extrait de la Seconde suite d'estampes pour servir à l'histoire des moeurs et costume des français dans le dix-huitième siècle
Année 1776
De l'imprimeur de Prault, imprimeur du Roy
Source: Gallica

This extract is describing an engraving from 1776.  The text gives the history of the women's hairstyle first then give a few words about the history of men's hairstyle. Here the braid and the ''cadenette'' are two distinct aspects of hairstyle, which are exclusively military, with the famous queue. This extract tends to show that a braid and a ''cadenette'' are alike but still different.

To link the 18th century paintings to the texts I have selected in this part of the article, I think that a military ''cadenette'' is the hairstyle that I called rattail before. 

Detail of military ''cadenette'', which I used to call rattail
 '' Siège de Fribourg-en-Briscau, 11 novembre 1744''
Artiste: Pierre-Nicolas Lenfant
1744-1445
Collections du Château de Versailles

The ''cadenette'' as a social marker

Extract of Le Railleur ou la Satyre du temps, comédie
by André Mareschal
1638
Source: Gallica

This extract is from a 17th century parody and tells about the superficial things that make young women fall in love: sparkles, feathers, gold, and ''cadenettes''

Extract of Nouveau Mercure
Avril 1717
Source: Gallica

In this theatre description the character of Arlequin, uses the cut hair of Samson ''en guise de cadenettes'' (as cadenettes) to have access to the legendary strength of Samson. The actions after, all ridiculous, show that it does not work.

Extrait de L'Aeneide travestie
Livre quatriesme
Contenant les Amours d'Aenee et de Didon
Par Antoine Furetière
1649

The interesting part of that extract, is that it is one of the few that refers the use of a ribbon for a ''cadenette'', under the word ''bandelettes''. These ribbons need to be tight to be presentable. M. de Furetières, who wrote that text, is more known for his dictionary than his literal work. The extract comes from a parody that presents heroes of greco-roman antiquity. one thing to understand, even if the action of a piece of theatre was a long time ago, 17th-18th century theatre was being played with ''normal clothing'' of the period (understand here 17th and 18th century).  The context looks like a man is waiting for one or more women to join him and is being asked to tighten his ''cadenettes'' to be more presentable.




''Cadenettes'' for woman

Some texts were talking about ''cadenettes'' as a women's hairstyle.

Extract of Le rabais du pain, en vers burlesque
1649
Source: Gallica

In this extract from the 17th century, the ''cadenettes'' are attributed to women and not to men, like all others extracts seemed to imply.

Extract of Dictionnaire des origines, découvertes, inventions et établissements
Tome premier
ou
Tableau historique de l'origine & des progrès de tout ce qui a rapport aux Sciences & aux Arts, aux modes et aux Usages, Ancien & Moderne, aux différents États, Dignités,Titres ou Qualités; & généralement tout ce qui peut être utile, curieux & intéressant à toutes les classes de Citoyens
Par une société de gens de lettres
1777
Source: Gallica

This extract, written by an educated community in the late 18th century, describe ''cadenettes'' to be wigs that women were wearing in the morning before brushing their hair , during the Henri IV period. Henri IV's reign was at the end of the 16th century, long before this text was written. Exploration of the word ''cadenette'' in the 16th century will be needed to confirm this affirmation.

Extract of l'Encyclopédie méthodique. Arts et métiers mécaniques.
Tome 6
de Jacques Lacombe
1782-1791
Source: Gallica

I really had trouble interpreting this extract. It comes at the end of the article dedicated to ''perruque de femme ou chignon'' (women's wig or bun), under the general section dedicated to wigs for woman. Before the author was describing ''favoris de boucles'' ( curls meant to be in front of the ear). The ''cadenette'' is made with hair behind the ears. What is confusing in French about 18th century wigs, is that braids (tresses)  is the name of the threads and hair that is use to make wigs. In this text, ''tressé gros'' may mean less hair in each thread of hair.

Here is a picture described by Gallica as a woman wearing a ''cadenette'' wig or hair.

Engraving of Marie-Antoinette d'Autriche
Title according to Gallica: Marie-Antoinette, de profil à gauche, coiffée en boucles et cadenettes, chapeau noir surmonté de plumes multicolores, vêtue d'une amazone couleur fraise écrasée, l'habit ouvert sur une veste blanche brodée ; montée en femme sur un cheval blanc à housse bleue bordée d'or
Source: Gallica 

This is an engraving showing the famous Marie-Antoinette, wife of Louis XVI. Here the ''cadenette'' seems to be a simple braid back up into the bun.

Extract of Journal de voyage fait par ordre du Roy dans l'Amérique Septentrionale
Adressé à Mme la Duchesse de Lesdiguières
By le Père de Charlevoix de la Compagnie de Jésus
Tome troisième
1744
Source: BANQ

Here ''cadenettes'' is use to describe the hair of Native American Woman. They use snake or eel skin to make their hairstyle. It is the second mention I have found that clearly mentions the use of a kind of ribbon to make a ''cadenette'', a skin of snake or eel in this case.


Cadenettes for Native Americans

Like the last text shown, the word cadenette is not a French exclusivity and is used to describe Native American hair as well.

Extract of Nouvelle relations de la Gaspésie, qui contient les moeurs & la religion des Sauvages Gaspésiens Porte-Croix, adorateurs du soleil, & d'autres peuples de l'Amérique Septentrionale dite le Canada
Dédiée à Madame la Princesse D'Épinoy
Par le Père Chrétien LeClercq
1691
Source: BANQ

According to Chrétien LeClercq,  Mi-kmaqs from Gaspésie were shaving their heads in a way that they were not able to wear ''cadenettes'' for one year when mourning a loved one.

Extract of Journal de voyage fait par ordre du Roy dans l'Amérique Septentrionale
Adressé à Mme la Duchesse de Lesdiguières
By le Père de Charlevoix de la Compagnie de Jésus
Tome deuxième
1744
Source: BANQ

Once again, the hair of Native Americans is described using the word cadenette.






When I wrote this article, I was about to finish it when I found THE source I was looking for to describe the ''cadenette''. This source has both of the descriptions, the hair in braid on the left side of the face and at the back hair of the head. That was a lovely finding.

Extrait du dictionnaire critique de la langue française
Tome premier A-D
Par Jean-François Féraud
1787
Source: Gallica

Even if this article is pretty long, it does not contain all the titles published in the 17th and 18th centuries that used the word ''cadenette''. I have seen the word used to describe the wig of a theatre actor, the hair of woman in China, the hair of Native Americans of Louisiane.



In the end, I can say that the ''cadenette'' is used to describe different hairstyles. It seems to be generic, as braids are. Like many words that have a few definitions, the context where the word is found helps to understand which definition it refers to.

Detail: Le repas de chasse

Artiste: François Boucher

1735

Exposed at Musée du Louvre

This hairstyle can now officially called a ''cadenette'' instead of a rattail!

Mlle Canadienne