''Les coeffeurs de dames contre ceux des messieurs'' a translation

 Hello,

After visiting Colonial Williamsburg in the beginning of May, I decided to help the Wigmakers shop there by translating this text I appreciate about Hairdressers and Wigmakers in France. I could not suspect that translating it would result to seize more the various general 18th century knowledge that was implied in the text.

''Mentre chioma gentil volge in anelli...''
Charles Joseph Flipart
1748-1750
British Museum

The original text in French publish in 1769 can be seen on Gallica here by ''Marin'', a man I have no informations about.

It is a pamphlet of fourteen pages about why hairdresser are so much better than perruke maker to style the hair of woman. And why it is important that Woman choose Hairdressers over Wigmakers to arrange their hair. To be said, in  17th century and early18th century France, officially only Perruke Maker (Barbier-perruquier) had the right to touch, cut and style hair. By the time this pamphlet was published, hairdressers just has been recognized as an official trade, making the wigs makers share the market of cutting and styling woman hair with hairdressers.

Une boutique de perruquier
 Antoine Watteau
vers 1709
Département des Arts graphiques du Musée du Louvres

I will put the modernized french text in italique in the left side and the translation in ''quotation notes'' on the left side page by page as they appear on the original text. I tried to make it the easiest to follow.

First page

Les coeffeurs de dames contre ceux des messieurs 

''Women's hairdressers versus gentlemen's hairdressers''

SEXE enchanteur dont la puissance

''Enchanting SEX whose potency''

Soumet les Mortels & les Dieux, 

''Subjugates Mortals & Gods,''

Dames , qui régnez en tous lieux,

''Ladies, who reign everywhere,''

Et dont le despotisme en France

''And whose despotism in France''

Plus qu'en Turquie, est merveilleux,

''More than in Turkey, is wonderful,''

Pour faire pencher la balance

''To tip the balance''

En faveur d'un Cygne amoureux,

''In favor of a Swan in love,''

Contre un Vétéran d'élégance

''Against a Veteran of Elegance''

Qui rajeunit pour vos beaux yeux ,

''Who rejuvenates for your beautiful eyes,''

Sans mettre à profit sa dépense ;

''Without taking advantage of the expense;''

Mesdames , souffrez qu'en ce jour

''Ladies, suffer only on this day''

VOS Coiffeurs commis par l'Amour,

''YOUR Hairdressers committed by Love,''

Amour coquet sans indécence ,

''coquettish love without indecency,''

Seuls inventeurs de vos atours,

''Sole inventors of your finery,''

Réclament vos nouveaux secours

''Claim your new help''

'

Second page

Contre la Perruquière Engeance,

''Against the Wigmaker Brood,''

Qui prétend vous coiffer toujours.

''Who claims to always do your hair.''

Thémis, qui n'a d'autre toilette

''Thémis, who has no other toilet''

Qu'un Siège auguste où ses Arrêts 

''That an august Seat where its Judgments:''

Des Dieux mêmes sont les décrets ,

''Of the Gods themselves are the decrees,''

Par la voix de leur Interprète ,

''Through the voice of their Interpreter,''

Des fers des tyrans Perruquiers

''From the Irons of the Wig Maker Tyrants''

Nous a délivrés par Huissiers ;

''Delivered us by Bailiffs;''

Et notre victoire est complète.

''And our victory is complete.''

Le Prévôt , le Garde,  &  Syndic

''Provost, Warden, & Syndic''

Barberie & Perruquerie ,

''Barber & Wig Shop,''

Le Sergent de la Confrèrie ,

''The Sergeant of the Brotherhood,''

Ne se coifferont plus du tic  ,

''Will no longer wear tics,''

D'encoffrer notre coifferie,

''To enclose our hairdressing,''

Et chacun fera son trafic :

''And each will do their traffic:''

Or , ayant les têtes des Dames

''Now, having the heads of ladies''

A notre disposition,

''At our disposal,''

Bien mieux que celles de nos femmes

''Much better than those of our women''

Qui coiffent à discrétion ,

''Who style at discretion,''

Nous autres experts en coiffure ,

''We hairdressing experts,''

Quand votre empire nous rassure ,

''When your empire reassures us,''

Mesdames , nous vous demandons

''Ladies, we ask you''

L'ordre & la marche de frisure.

''The order & the march of curling .''

Un nouveau goût nous attendons 

''A new taste we expect,''

Où l'art surpasse la nature.

''Where art surpasses nature.''

On vous a fait des faux cheveux,

''We made you fake hair,''

Des Favoris pour vos oreilles,

''Side whiskers for your ears,''

Qui vous font goûter les aveux

''Which make you taste the confessions''

Des Conteurs de tendres merveilles ;

''Tellers of tender wonders;''

Third page

Abbés, Financiers généreux;

''Abbots, Generous Financiers;''

Vos toupets sont hauts d'une toile ;

''Your forelocks are as high as a canvas;''

Nous y mettons chaux & ciment.

''We put lime & cement in it.''

Le clocher de Georges d'Amboise

''The bell tower of Georges d'Amboise''

Menace moins le firmament ;

''Less threatens the firmament;''

En tuyaux d'orgue l'on vous donne

''In organ pipes we give you''

L'air de Cybelle , Porte-tours

''Cybelle's Allure, Tower Carrier''

En tête , en guise de couronne.

''On the head, as a crown.''

La nouveauté séduit toujours ;

''Novelty always seduces;''

Entre vos boucles élégantes

''Between your elegant curls''

Folâtrent les badins Amours ,

''The frolicsome Loves flirt,''

Se balancent sur les flottantes :

''Swing on the floats:'' (locks)

Un Dédale a moins de détours ,

''A Daedalus has fewer detours,''

Que ces chevelures magiques ,

''Than these magic hairs,''

Ces petits canons & ces piques

''These little cannons & these pikes''

Braqués,  pointés par Cupidon , 

''Aimed, pointed by Cupid,''

Qui se fait un double brandon 1

''Who makes himself a double brandon''1

Des yeux ardents de nos pratiques.

''Ardents eyes of our practices.''

Sera-ce un pétulent Barbier ?

''Will it be a petulant Barber?''

Par état l'écho du quartier,

''By state the neighborhood echo,''

Jaseur , conteur impitoyable,

''Pratler, merciless storyteller,''

Vêtu comme fiacre. . .  à la diable ;

''Dressed as a cab. . . to the devil;''

Osera-t it jamais porter

''Will it ever dare to wear''

Sa main savonneuse , indiscrète ,

''His soapy, indiscreet hand,''

Sur une féminine tête ,

''On a feminine head,''

Que les Grâces font respecter ,

''Which the Graces enforce,''

Fût-ce celle d'une Grisette,

''Were it that of a Grisette,''

Quand on fait assaut de chignon,

''When we assault a bun,''

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Note personnelle: j'ai cherché et je ne trouve pas la définition du mot bradon. Il pourrait venir de la même famille que brader, verbe transitif signifiant se débarasser d'un article à bas prix ou de livrer sans contrepartie un patrimoine qu'on a le devoir de sauvegarder. Ce mot viendrait du néerlandais braden signifiant rôtir puis détruire. 

1. Personnal note: I can not find the definition of the french name ''bradon'' . It looks like being of the same family of the verb ''brader'' meaning to sell off for very little price.

Fourth page

Dans une galante conquête ,

''In a gallant conquest,''

La moindre Nymphe vaut Junon ;

''The least Nymph is equal to Juno;''1.

Junon fut-elle plus coquette ?

''Was Juno more flirtatious?''

Pour nous Ministres de toilette ,

''For us Toilet Ministers,''

Mesdames, quel plus beau destin !

''Ladies, what a more beautiful destiny!''

Nous raccommodons au matin

''We mend in the morning''

Les dérangements de la veille.

''The disturbances of the day before.''

Sous le peignoir , Eglé sommeille 

''Under the wrapper, Aegle slumbers''2.

L'écaille nous tombe des mains.

''The scale falls from our hands.''

Mais deux petits Jumeaux lutins

''But two little pixie twins''

Font que le diable nous réveille.

''Make the devil wake us up.''

Coiffeurs , sans être libertins ,

''Hairdressers, without being libertines,''

Ont toujours la puce à l'oreille,

''Always have a flea in their ears,''3.

Ornant ces chefs-d'oeuvres divins,

''Adorning these divine masterpieces,''

les braver , ce serait merveille,

''to brave them, it would be marvellous,''

Les Coiffeurs ne sont pas des saints.

''Hairdressers are not saints.''

Mais l'on connait notre élégance

''But one knows our elegance''

Que n'auront jamais les Barbiers,

''What the Barbers will never have''

Fussent-ils Jurés Perruquiers,

''Were they wig maker jurors,''4.

Premiers Nouvellistes de France :

'' Premiers Trendsetters of France:''

On remarque avec quelle aisance

''We notice how easily''

Un beau Coiffeur parle de tout,

''A handsome Hairdresser talks about everything,''

D'habits, d'ouvrages de bon goût, 

''Of clothes, of works, of good taste,''

D'esprit, de musique & de danse ,

''Of spirit and music & dance,''

Des jeux de Nicolet sur-tout.

'' Nicolet games, above all.''5.

Thoré sur ses Fêtes Foraines ,

''Thoré on his Fairgrounds,''

Changeant ses feux , la consulté ,

''Changing her lights, consulted her,''

Et les flammes ultramontaines

''And ultramontane flames''

---------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Juno was the Roman goddess who protected the nation as a whole but also kept special watch over all aspects of women's lives. She is often thought of as the Roman version of the Greek goddess of love and marriage, Hera.

2. Aegle was the goddess of radiant good health. She was an attendant of her father, the medicine-god Asklepios 

3. ''Avoir la puce à l'oreille'' is a french idiom meaning to be alert to the emotions or news the speaker might have, being attentive. The literal translation is kinda weird: Having a flea to the ear. Idioms are hard to translate.

4. According to the ''dictionnaire de l'Académie Française'' all masters of a guild had to swear to become a master therefore they are sworn wig maker, worn tailor... And the masters that are designed to make respect the rules and law of the guild are also called sworn wig maker. In this case, it could be both.

5. I have no idea what are Nicolet games. For me Nicolet is a town close to the place I live now, which is named after a guy ''Jean Nicolet'' who has drown into the river and gave his name to the river and later the town.

Fifth page

Dont l'Art est ici transporté;

''Of whose Art is transported here;''

Et rend tout Paris enchanté ;

''And makes all Paris enchanted;''

Tant de merveilles seraient vaines 

''So many wonders would be in vain''

On n'admirerait point sans lui

''We would not admire without him''

Les lumineux Ruggieri :

''The Luminous Ruggieri:''1.

Historiographe des Belles ,

''Historiographer of Beauties,''

Il sait la nouvelle du jour,

''He knows the news of the day,''

Le Dictionnaire des Ruelles ,

''The Alleys Dictionary,''

Tous les marchés qu'a fait  l'Amour 

''All the markets that Love has made''

Soit avec un Duc de Finance ,

''Either with a Duke of Finance,''

Un talon rouge de la Cour,

''A red heel of the Court,''

Ou quelqu'Etranger d'importance ;

''Or some Stranger of importance;''

Sur l'épée & le manteau-court ,

''On the sword & the shortcoat,''

Son babil n'est jamais à court 

''His babble is never short''

On sourit à sa médisance,

''We smile at his slander,''

Ses propos font divins, exquis ;

''His words are divine, exquisite;''

Tournant sur l'axe des fleurettes,

''Turning on the axis of the flowers,''

Tel que nos sémillans Marquis ,

''Like our enchanted Marquis,''

C'est lui souvent qui met à prix

''He is often the one who puts a price on''

Des Vulcains nouveaux les aigrettes,

''New Vulcans the sparks egrets''2.

Les complaisances de Cypris,

''The complacency of Cypris,''3.

Et tant de sourdes amourettes

''And so many deaf love affairs''

Dont il a les menus profits.

''Of which he has the smallest profits.''

Mesdames, vous rendrez justice

''Ladies, you will do justice''

A notre ardeur pour vous servir;

''To our eagerness to serve you;''

Si nous employons l'artifice,

''If we use artifice,''

Ce n'est que pour vous embellir.

''It's just to make you look better.''

Sans fronder nos Soeurs les Coiffeuses

''Without criticizing our Sisters the Hairdressers''

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. The Ruggieri brothers is an Italian family of pyrotechnicians that arrived in 1739 in Paris and commenced their career of pyrotechnician to the King Louis XV.

2.Vulcan is, in Roman religion, god of fire, particularly in its destructive aspects as volcanoes or conflagrations. Poetically, he is given all the attributes of the Greek Hephaestus. 

3. In French, Cypris is another name for the goddess Venus.

Sixth page

Qui se donnent des airs penchés

''Who give themselves leaning airs'' 

Et des grâces majestueuses

''And majestic graces''

Nous ne serions pas si fâchés,

''We wouldn't be so angry,''

Qu'elles fussent moins envieuses

''If they were less envious''

D'aller sur nos petits marchés

''To go to our little markets''

Aux enchères voluptueuses.

''To voluptuous auctions.''

Une Etrangère ne fait pas

''A foreigner does not make''

Sur les remparts le moindre pas 

''On the ramparts the slightest step''

Que nos soeurs n'en soient enquêteuses.

'' That our sisters would not investiguate.''

Un élégant peigne en leurs mains

''An elegant comb in their hands''

Se change en joli Caducée,

''Changes into a pretty Caduceus,'' 1.

Les coeurs féminins sont humains ,

''Feminine hearts are humane,''

Une Coiffeuse est si rusée. ...

''A Hairdresser is so cunning. ...''

''Eh bien , que pense t-il de moi ,

''Well, what does he think of me,''

Lindor dont tu parles sans cesse ''

''Lindor of whom you talk incessantly''

''Madame, sa noble tendresse

''Madam, his noble tenderness''

Ne peut vous inspirer d'effroi,

''Cannot but inspire you with awe,''

II vous offre son pur hommage.''

''He offers you his pure homage.''

Comment me trouve-t-il ?  ''au mieux ,

''How does he find me? the best ,''

A miracle, & sans persiflage,

''Miraculous, & without mockery,''

II proteste que vos beaux yeux. . . .''

''He protests that your beautiful eyes. . . .''

Est-il riche ? ''Il donne équipage 

''Is he rich? He gives trapping''

Maison montée & pour raison ''

''House finished & for reason''

L'aimable petite maison.

''The cute little house.''

Achève ton accommodage. . ..

''Complete your styling. . ..''

Ainsi nos Soeurs , dans ce canton ,

''Thus our Sisters, in this canton,''

Font plus d'un galant personnage ,

''Make more than one gallant personage,''

Coiffant les Dames du bon ton ,

''Styling the ladies of good taste,''

-------------------------------------------------------

1. A caduceus is a representation of a staff with two entwined snakes and two wings at the top.

Seventh page

Et les Nymphes du bel usage ;

''And the Nymphs of beautiful custom;''

Officières de Cupidon 

''Officers of Cupid''

Et Faiseuses de mariage

''And wedding makers''

Par devant le Dieu du plaisir 

''Before the God of Pleasure''

Et son Confrère le Désir,

''And his colleague Desire,''

Notaires anciens de Cythère 

''Ancient Notaries of Kythera''

Les privilèges de nos Soeurs,

''The privileges of our Sisters,''

Donnés par l'Amour & sa Mère ,

''Given by Love & his Mother,''

Bravent les Perruquiers censeurs,

''Brave the censoring wigmakers,''

Et vû leur auspice salutaire,

''And in view of their auspicious usefulness,''

Nos droits en deviendront meilleurs ;

''Our rights will become better;''

Or nous devons les laisser faire.

'''Therefore we have to let them be.''

Mais que des Barbiers mal-adroits,

''But only clumsy barbers,''

Pour nous ravir ces mêmes droits ,

''To deprive us of these same rights,''

Fondent sur nous en vrais Corsaires ,

'' Fall on us like true Corsairs,''

Ils n'entendent pas les affaires ,

''They don't hear the business''

Thémis leur donne sur les doigts :

''Themis gives them on their fingers:''1.

Frais & dépens font leurs salaires ;

''Costs & expenses make their salaries;''

Et l'Art n'étant plus aux abois,

''And in dire straits Art no longer exist,''

Nous en coiffons mieux mille fois ,

''We do hair a thousand times better ,''

Ces têtes errantes, légères,

''These wandering heads, light,''

Qui tournent comme moulinets ,

''Which spin like pinwheels,''

Têtes de vieilles Etrangères,

''Heads of old foreign women,''

Aux crins durs, aux rampants toupets

''With hard hair, with crawling forelocks''

Que le peigne n'exalte guères ,

''That the comb hardly exalts,''

Cheveux de champêtres fermières,

''Hair of country female farmers,''

En manière de bois taillis ;

''In the manner of coppiced wood;''

Nouvellement dans ce pays

''New to this country''

-----------------------------------------------------------------

1. In the Greek mythology, Themis is the daughter of Gaia and Ouranos, the goddess of the Law. The use of Themis let think that there has been legal actions by the hairdressers community against the wigmakers

Eighth page

Avec leur beau petit Vicaire,

''With their handsome little Vicar,''

Qui prit Saint Denis pour Paris ;.

''Who took Saint Denis for Paris;.''

Y perdit même son Bréviaire,

''even lost his Breviary there,''

Tant ses yeux étaient éblouis... . 

''His eyes were so dazzled. ''

Nous pourrions livrer quelques têtes

''We could deliver some heads''

Aux fers des Barbiers nos rivaux ;

'' To the Barbers irons our rivals;''

Des vieux crins qu'ils soient les bourreaux;

'' Of old manes let them be the executioners.''

Mais aux chevelures jeunettes

''But to young hair''

Sont dûs nos peignes, nos ciseaux »

''Our combs, our scissors are due.''

Armes puissantes des Toilettes.

''Powerful dressing weapons.''

Eglé, la minaudière Eglé ,

''Aegle, the Aeglé who make small ways to please,''1.

Dont la tête est si douloureuse,

''Whose head is so aching,''

Et le cerveau si mal réglé,

''And the brain so ill-adjusted,''

Essuierait une crise affreuse !

''Could suffer a terrible crisis!''

Et mortellement vaporeuse»

                                                                                                                 ''And deadly vaporous”''

Si l'humide main d'un Barbier 

''If the wet hand of a barber''

Fût-il André le Perruquier (a.),

''Were he André le Perruquier (a.),''

Dont la muse est encor fameuse 

''Whose muse is still famous''

( C'est toujours odeur savonneuse  )

''(It's still a soapy smell)''

Si cette roturière main

''If this commoner hand''

Osoit toucher le noble crin

''Dare to touch the noble hair''

De la prude vertigineuse.

''Of the exalted prude.''

Pour des cheveux de qualité

''For quality hair''

Il faut une main ouvrière ,

''You need a qualified hand''

Qui dans un cas de rareté ,

''Who in a case of rarity,''

(a) Voyez sa belle Tragédie du Tremblement de

terre de Lisbonne.

''(a) See his beautiful Earthquake Tragedy

of Lisbon.''2.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

1.Aegle is the daughter of Asclepio and the goddess of magnificence and splendor in Greek mythology.

2. This historical event took place in November first, 1755. It basically destroyed Lisbon entirely and killed a big part of the city. Attributing that unfortunate event to an incompetent Wigmaker called André is mean to say the least.

Ninth page

Par connoissance familière 

''By familiar knowledge''

Substitue à la quantité

''Substitute the quantity''

Manquante au-devant, au derrière ,

''Missing in front and behind,''

Où le crâne est en nudité,

''Where the skull is naked,''

Une architecture factice,

''A fake architecture,''

Un massif crêpé , cimenté ,

''A creped, cemented mass,''

Et que l'art corrige le vice ,

''And that art corrects the vice,''

De la nature l'injustice:

''Of natural injustice:''

Un Barbier s'en est-il vanté ?

'' Has a barber boasted about it?''

Les blonds cheveux de Berenice

'' Berenice's blond hair''

En Astres seroient-ils changés ,

''In Stars would they be changed,''

Si les Barbiers s'étoient chargés

''If the Barbers were charged''

D'en bâtir le bel édifice . . .

''To build its beautiful edifice. . .''

Ah ! sans doute, que de tout temps,

''Ah! without doubt, that from time immemorial,''

Pour ranimer ses tendres flammes,

''To rekindle its tender flames,''

II fut des Coiffeurs importants,

''There was important hairdressers,''

Et fur-tout des Coiffeurs de Dames.

''And most of all Ladies Hairdressers.''

Sexe charmant, vous sçavez trop

''Charming sex, you know too much''

Combien notre art vous est utile ;

''How useful our art is to you;''

On nous voit vous suivre au galop

''We are seen following you at a gallop''

Aux champs , à la Cour , à la Ville 

''To the fields, to the Court, to the City''

Une coiffeuse est moins agile ,

''A woman hairdresser is less agile,''

Ne pouvant même aller le trot :

''Unable even to trot:''

Car elle est souvent femme-fille 

''Because she is often woman-girl''

N'importe, elle est de la famille,

''It doesn't matter, she's family,''

Et seuls nous soutenons l'assault

''And we alone suffer the assault''

De votre humeur, de votre bile.

''Of your mood,  of your bile.''

Un peigné vif, un fer trop chaud,

''A brisk comb, an overheated iron,''

Tenth page

Une papillote indocile,

''A rebellious papillote,''1.

Nous coiffent du nom d'imbécile 

'' Style us with the name of imbecile''

Bourreau, c'est votre dernier mot 

''Executioner, it's your last word''

Et nous d'un petit air tranquille

''And we with a littlequiet air''

Nous chevretons un Vaudeville 

''We jump a Vaudeville''

Une Bourbonnaise, & bientôt

''A Bourbonnaise, & soon''

Hors d'embarras, quand la Soubrette

''Out of embarrassment, when the silly Maid''

Est souffletée à la toilette ,

''Is  slammed away of the toilet,''

Nous avons fait bien plus d'un saut.

''We have made much more than one leap.''

Chez la future Mariée,

''At the home of the bride-to-be,''

Voyez l'allure d'un Coiffeur.

''See the allure of a Hairdresser.''

C'est un aimable persifleur ,

''He's a pleasant joker,''

Dont la langue est bien déliée.

''Whose tongue is loose.''

Coiffant une fille d'honneur,

''Styling a maid of honor,''

Fille d'Orangère-Fruitière,

''Daughter of Orangère-Fruitière,''

Qui pourtant n'en est pas plus fière

''Who, however, is not more proud of it''

Quoiqu'elle épouse un Procureur

''Although she marries a procurator''

Aux Consuls, & que son grand frère

''To the Consuls, & that her big brother''

Soit Brigadier d'une barrière

'' Is Brigadier of a barrier''

Son Coiffeur la met en humeur ;

''Her hairdresser puts her in a good mood;''

De Vadé parlant le langage

''Of Vadé speaking the language''2.

Chez les gens de goût en usage,

''Used among people of taste in use,''

La Luronne en rit de bon coeur :

''La Luronne laughs heartily:''3.

Le lendemain du mariage

''The day after the wedding''

Si l'on coiffe le Procureur

''If we hairdress the Prosecutor''

En Ménêlas , Epoux sauvage,

''In Menelaus, savage Bridegroom,''4.

C'est d'après l'avis du Coiffeur ,

''It is according to the opinion of the Hairdresser,''

Dans le femelle Aréopage ,

''In the female Areopagus,''5.

Galant & disert Rapporteur,

''Gallant & eloquent Reporter,''

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. A papillote is a piece of paper or taffetas inside which a strand of hair is placed to protect if from the heat of irons. Here the French description.

2..Jean-Joseph Vadé is a French chansonnier and playwright born in 1719. He published a serie of fables that were not as known as the La Fontaine ones but had some reputation during his time. What earned Vadé to be best known for being the creator of the poissard genre which he invented after several trials to more serious theater pieces.

3.Luronne is the feminine word for a person being easily happy.

4. Melenaus in Greek mythology, king of Sparta and younger son of Atreus, king of Mycenae; the abduction of his wife, Helen, led to the Trojan War. During the war Menelaus served under his elder brother Agamemnon, the commander in chief of the Greek forces.

5. The Aeropagus is a hill of government in  Ancient Greece used to refer to a governmental assembly of persons.

Eleventh page

Pour nous , Mesdames, quel honneur 

''For us, ladies, what an honor''

Vainement un Barbier se forge

''In vain does a barber forge''

Des prétentions de valeur ,

''Some pretensions of worth,''

Étant Étuviste-Baigneur ... .

''Being Etuviste-Baigneur ... .''1.

Lorsqu'il prend les Gens à la gorge ,

''When he grabs people by the throat,''

C'est un affront à la pudeur ,

''It's an affront to modesty,''

Aujourd'hui vertu de rigueur

''Today the virtue de rigueur''

Parmi les filles & les femmes ;

''Among girls & women;''

Voilà pourquoi, sensibles Dames,

''That is why, sensitive ladies,''

Les Gens à rasoirs vous font peur.

''People with razors scare you.''

D'entre vous plus d'une Eloïse

''Of you more than one Eloise''

Craint tout pour son cher Abélard

''Fears everything for her dear Abelard''2.

A qui l'on fit une sottise

''To whom we style impertinent''

Pour avoir été trop gaillard

''For being too gay''

Dans une amoureuse surprise.

''In a loving surprise.''

Laissons le rasoir à l'écart.

''Let's put the razor aside.''

Mesdames , parlons de notre Art.

''Ladies, let's talk about our Art.''

Marchand prône sa marchandise.

''Merchant promotes his merchandise.''

Nous donc qui devons notre état

''We, therefore, who owe our state''

A la belle moitié du monde ,

''To the beautiful half of the world,''

Au Sexe tendre, & délicat,

''To the tender and delicate Sex,''

Qui ne veut qu'on coupe , ni tonde... .

''Who doesn't want us to cut or mow...''

Nous vous supplions tous en Corps ,

''We beg you all in Body,''

Chères Divinités visibles ,

''Dear Visible Deities,''

De nous garder de tous Recors

''To keep us from all deputies''

Qu'enverroient les Barbiers terribles

''That would send the terrible Barbers''

Chez vous, pour nous mettre dehors.

''To your house, to kick us out.''

Vous n'entendez pas qu'on vous rase 

''You don't want us to shave you''

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Some of the members of the guild of ''Barbier-perruquiers'' (Barbers-Wig makers) were hosting bathhouses. When so, they were called ''baigneur-étuvistes'' according to M. de Garsault in this book of 1767 about wig makers.

2. Abelard and Heloise are an iconic famous couple from the Middle Ages

Twelfth page

Vos ordres sont que vos cheveux

''Your orders are only your hair''

Soient du sommet jusqu'à la base

''Whether from summit to base''

Un petit Atlas sourcilleux.

''A fussy little Atlas.''1.

Un Coiffeur répond à vos voeux ;

''A Hairdresser responds to your wishes;''

Docile à vos bruyans caprices ,

''Docile to your noisy whims,''

La toilette & ses exercices,

''The toilet & its exercises,''

Et la ruelle & ses malices ,

''And the alley & its tricks,''2.

Un Coiffeur n'a pas d'autres jeux:

''A Hairdresser has no other games:''

Les Barbiers seroient trop heureux

''Barbers would be too happy''

De partager nos bénéfices ;

''To share our profits;''

Mais ils ont les rasoirs contre eux,

''But they have the razors against them,''

Et les rasoirs sont maléfices.

''And razors are hexes.''

Or , Mesdames, vous daignerez

''Now, ladies, you will deign''

Protéger notre ministère ,

''To protect our ministry,''

Le moindre coiffeur de Cythère

''The lesser hairdresser of Kythera''

Ne poudroit pas fur les dégrés

''Couldn't powder on the angles''

L'Amour, les Grâces, ni leur Mère.

''Love, the Graces, nor their Mother.''

Ici le Barbier - Perruquier

''Here the Barber - Wigmaker''

Ne poudre que sur l'escalier 

''Only powders but on the stairs''

Tandis qu'en un lieu solitaire,

''While in a lonely place,''

Sans jeter de la poudre aux yeux,

''Without throwing in the eyes,''

Comme à Paris c'est l'ordinaire,

''As in Paris it's the common way,''

Pour imposer à qui mieux-mieux,

''To impose on whoever one met,''

D'une ingénieuse manière ,

''In an ingenious manner,''

NOUS VOUS prodiguons la poussière

''WE provide the dust for YOU''

Blanche , brune , jonquille, enfin ,

''White, brown, daffodil, finally,''

Celle propice à votre teint.

''The one that suits your complexion.''

C'est toujours à votre toilette

''It's always at your toilet''

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. In Homer’s Odyssey, Book I, Atlas seems to have been a marine creature who supported the pillars that held heaven and earth apart.

2. The alley ''ruelle'' in french can design the space between the bed and the wall. 

Here is the 1740 definition of ''ruelle'' of the dictionnaire de l'Académie Française 

Ruelle, Signifie aussi, L’espace qu’on laisse entre un des côtez du lit, & la muraille. Il n’y a pas assez de ruelle. Mettez ce fauteuil dans la ruelle.

On dit fig. qu’Un homme passe sa vie dans les ruelles, qu’il va de ruelle en ruelle, pour dire, qu’Il est souvent chez les Dames & qu’il se plaît dans leur conversation. On dit de même, qu’Un homme brille dans les ruelles, pour dire, qu’Il brille dans l’entretien des Dames.

Alley,  Also means, The space left between one side of the bed, & the wall. There aren't enough alleys. Put that chair in the alley.

We say fig. that a man spends his life in the alleys, that he goes from alley to alley, to say, that he is often with the ladies & that he enjoys their conversation. It is said in the same way, that A man shines in the alleys, to say, that He shines in the maintenance of the Ladies.

I do not know if and what is the English equivalent of that kind of ''alley''.

Thirteenth page

Que notre main prompte & discrette

''That our prompt & discreet hand''

Vous obéit soir & matin.

''Obeys you evening & morning.''

II est de votre honneur , Mesdames ,

''It is of your honor, ladies,''

De faire honorer vos Coiffeurs

''To honor your Hairdressers''

De nous sauver en corps , en âmes

''To save us in body, in souls''

Des fers de nos persécuteurs ;

''From the irons of our persecutors;''

Heureux les protégés des Dames,

''Happy are the protégés of the Ladies,''

Malheureux leurs contradicteurs !

''Unhappy their opponents!''

Remplis de la douce espérance

''Filled with sweet hope''

que vous prendrez notre défense

''that you will come to our defense''

Contre le rasoir rigoureux

''Against the rigorous razor''

Qui change le plus vigoureux

''Who changes most vigorously''

En être de peu d'importance,

''To being of little importance,''

Que l'ordre à mettre à vos cheveux

''That the order to put to your hair''

Sera de notre compétence,

''Will be within our competence,''

Nous chargeant de vos billets doux

''Loading us with your love notes''

Et d'assurer les rendez-vous 

''And to make sure appointments''

Mieux que la Poste Parisienne

''Better than the Paris Post Office''

A l'Amour d'annoncer l'ancienne,

''To the Love of announcing the ancient,''

Et d'amuser l'hymen jaloux;

''And to amuse the jealous hymen;''

Mesdames , il dépend de vous

''Ladies, it's up to you''

Qu'en ses mains un Coiffeur vous tienne;

''If a Hairdresser holds you in his hands;''

Car les Coiffeuses, entre nous,

''Because the lady Hairdressers, between us,''

N'ont pas droit sur nos droits d'aubaine ;

''Are not being allowed our boon rights;''

En François, en Grec , en Latin,

''In French, in Greek, in Latin,''

Féminin n'est pas masculin.

''Feminine is not masculine.''

A nos Soeurs, sans faire de peine ,

''To our Sisters, without pain,''

Que chacun ait son compte : enfin

''Let everyone have their due: finally''

Fourteenth page

Le nôtre sera de conclure

''Ours will be to conclude''

A mériter le libre état

''To deserve the free state''

Que les Reines de la nature

''That the queens of nature''

Nous donnent en ce beau climat.

''Give us in this beautiful climate.''

Parlez au charmant Magistrat

''Talk to the charming Magistrate''

Qui régit cette Capitale ,

''Who governs this Capital,''

Son coeur est noble & délicat. 

''His heart is noble & delicate.''

Quand une belle bouche étale

''When a beautiful mouth spreads''

Ses droits pour faire des heureux 

''His rights to make people happy''

Elle a pour elle hommes & Dieux ,

''She has men and gods on her side,''

Et Thémis n'est pas sa Rivale.

''And Themis is not her Rival.''

FIN.

Lu & approuvé ce 21 Mars 1769. MARIN.

END.

Read & approved this March 21, 1769. MARIN.

-----------------------------------------------------------

If we believe how the hairdressers described the work of wigmakers on woman head, the result would always end like this:

Satire de James Bretherton
1787
Collection of the British Museum

I really hope this article could be of some interest for people studying hairstyle and wigmaking.

I want to deeply thank Cathrine Davis for the lecture and correction. Your help is really appreciated.

Mlle Canadienne

Wigmakers in New France as told by the archives of BANQ

Hello,



This article is a continuation of those devoted in part or in whole to 18th century wigmakers. In the last few years, with my boyfriend Michel Thévenin (historian and author of the blog Tranchées et Tricornes) we have twice given a conference on men's hairstyle in the 18th century, presentation mainly based on L'art du Perruquier by M. de Garsault from 1767.



For more information on the practice rights of wigmakers, please visit this article.



My other article dedicated to wigmakers in New France lists of wigmakers appearing in the Quebec and Montreal paper declarations of 1763 and 1764 in "the Canada Affair".



Our first conference took place in the vaults of the Palais de l'Intendant in August 2018 as part of the Rendez-vous d'Histoire de Québec. The second took place last year (2019) at the Musée de la civilisation as part of the New France Festival.





The purpose of this article is to try to determine if the wig makers of New France made their wigs. As explained in detail in the article on the rights of practicing wigmakers, the manufacture of the wig is not the only activity that is reserved for wigmakers. The questions of supply of particular materials (silk gauze, human hair, forms of wood ...) with the distance of New France compared to the metropolis are still to be clarified. It is possible that the wig makers of New France were only retyping the wigs that the aristocracy bought directly in France without entirely manufacturing them.



Is it possible to determine beyond all doubt that the wig makers of New France manufactured the wigs themselves that they sold?

A wig shop
Artist: Jeremias Snoek
1775
Museum of London

My hope was to find in BANQ's digitized documents a trial report against a wigmaker for having manufactured a wig of bad quality.



From my research in the digital archives of BANQ (Bibliothèque et Archives Nationales du Québec), I have uncovered a dozen documents that allow us to understand the world of wigs in New France.





The quotes enclosed in quotes are BANQ's summaries and not a literal transcript of the archives. By clicking on the underlined title, you will find the digitized archives.









1. A merchant wig maker buys part of the current ''Côte-Nord'' , July 10, 1709

Contrat de vente par Jean-Baptiste Bissot, sieur de Vincennes, officier dans les troupes du détachement de la Marine, demeurant à Québec, fils du sieur François Bissot, sieur de la Rivière (LaRivière), et de damoiselle Marie Couillard, au sieur François Brissonnet (Bissonnet), marchand perruquier de Québec, d'une partie de remplacement donnant sis sur le fleuve Saint-Laurent, à prendre depuis l'île aux Oeufs les Blancs-Sablons avec toutes les îles Mingan et les autres îles îles dans ladite étendue (Notaire Michel Lepailleur de LaFerté)

''Sales contract by Jean-Baptiste Bissot, Sieur de Vincennes, officer in the troops of the Navy detachment, living in Quebec, son of Sieur François Bissot, Sieur de la Rivière (LaRivière), and Damoiselle Marie Couillard, at sieur François Brissonnet (Bissonnet), wig merchant from Quebec, a replacement part overlooking the St. Lawrence River, to be taken from Ile aux Oeufs les Blancs-Sablons with all the Mingan and other islands in said area (Notary Michel Lepailleur de LaFerté) ''

This document touched me personally because I was born on the Côte-Nord territory. If the toponymy has remained the same until today, Ile aux Oeufs is located opposite the current Port-Cartier, the Mingan Islands are opposite Havre-St-Pierre and Blanc-Sablon is the neighboring municipality at Labrador, today representing approximately 900 km of coastline (889 km according to Google Maps to be exact). The North Shore had been nicknamed by Jacques Cartier the land of Cain. In the biblical account of the Book of Genesis, Cain is the cursed son of Adam (Adam and Eve) to have killed his brother Abel by jealousy. The curse is that he could no longer harvest, he who was a gardener and a farmer. The Côte-Nord forest is made up of conifers growing on rocky soil, not very suitable for cereal farming, hence this nickname.



This document allows us to deduce that a wig merchant can save enough to buy a huge territory although very inhospitable. I think it was more his job as a merchant that saved him as much money as that of a wig maker, but I wanted to share it. I have not done any in-depth research, but I do not believe that François Brissonnet, wig merchant, has occupied and exploited his land.











2. A wig maker is asked to hand over a wig that had been entrusted to be shrunk, July 7, 1745

À la requête de Pierre Laborde, navigateur, domicilié rue Champlain à Québec, assignation de Charles Couet (Cauhet), perruquier de Québec, demeurant sur la rue du Sault-au-Matelot, afin qu'il se remette au perruque donné à rétrécir , aux offres de payer 45 sols pour l'ouvrage fait

'' At the request of Pierre Laborde, navigator, domiciled on rue Champlain in Québec, summons by Charles Couet (Cauhet), Québec wig maker, residing on rue du Sault-au-Matelot, so that he could use the wig given to shrink, to offers to pay 45 floors for the work done ''

This document supports the hypothesis of wigmakers as wig repairers.

Detail of Planche I- Wigmaker cabinet
From: Art du Perruquier
François-Alexandre-Pierre de Garsault
1767
Source: Gallica

3. The same wig maker asks the Court either for reimbursement of a repair of the wig, or for permission to sell it, July 15, 1745

À la requête de Charles Couet (Cauhet), perruquier de Québec, domicilié rue du Sault-au-Matelot, assignation de Pierre Laborde, navigateur, demeurant sur la rue Champlain à Québec, afin qu'il soit payé 2 livres et 5 sols pour la réparation d'une perruque, qu'il a abandonné depuis un an, ou que la Cour permette audit Couet de vendre ladite perruque pour récupérer son argent

''At the request of Charles Couet (Cauhet), Quebec wig maker, domiciled on rue du Sault-au-Matelot, summons by Pierre Laborde, navigator, residing on rue Champlain in Quebec, so that he could be paid 2 livres and 5 sols for the repair of a wig, which he has abandoned for a year, or for the Court to allow the Couet to sell the wig to recover his money ''

 Rebound in the case of the shrinking of the wig of the navigator Pierre Laborde!


Small monetary reminder


According to the exhibition `` Paris en vitrine, les boutiques au 18ième siècle'' of the  Stewart Museum in 2018, a livre is worth 20 sols. The daily salary in the middle of the eighteenth century in Paris, for about eleven hours of work, of a cabinetmaker's carpenter is 10 sols , a roofer 15 sols and a laborer 20 sols.



We can deduce that this wig repair costs one to two days of work for a skilled worker. From there, I extrapolate a little by thinking that the shrinking of this wig could represent to the wig maker Charles Couet one to two days of work.



As for the dispute between Pierre Laborde and the wig maker, Charles Couet, I see the ease of the time to pass from one monetary value to another. In the first text, we speak of 45 floors and in the second of 2 books and 5 floors. It is indeed the same amount requested!







4. A wig-maker soldier requests payment for two wigs, June 6, 1731

Procès entre Jacques Neveu, soldat, perruquier de métier, demandeur, et [Bertin dit Laronde?], Navigateur, défendeur, pour le paiement de perruques

Ce dossier de matière est composé des pièces suivantes: la requête de Jacques Neveu pour faire assigner à comparer le navigateur [Laronde?] Pour payer au demandeur ce qui reste sur un compte pour la fourniture de deux perruques, soit 30 livres; la permission de faire approcher les parties et de faire saisir ce que le demandeur pourra trouver; et la signification ainsi que l'assignation à comparaître

'' Trial between Jacques Neveu, soldier, professional wig maker, plaintiff, and [Bertin dit Laronde?], Navigator, defendant, for the payment of wigs


This material file is composed of the following documents: Jacques Neveu's request to make appear the navigator [Laronde?] To pay the applicant what remains on an account for the supply of two wigs, ie 30 livres; permission to approach the parties and seize what the plaintiff can find; and the service as well as the summons to appear ''

In this document, the main profession of the wig maker Jacques Neveu is a soldier. It was not uncommon for soldiers sent to the colony to exercise a trade before enlisting in the army. Most of their motive was job security. Indeed, the profession of soldier, even if it exposes to the direct consequences of the war, assures the soldier of being housed, fed and clothed for the duration of the contract in exchange for his services. It is not uncommon to see soldiers exercising other trades in New France: carpenter, blacksmith, baker, wig maker ...



The wigmaker Neveu asks to finish paying an account for two wigs. My skills in paleography are limited, but I find that 10 livres were given to the wig maker when the wigs were ordered. Which would make us 40 livres for 2 wigs, or 800 sols.



Suppose our friend wig maker works at 20 sols a day, it would take him 20 days to make a wig. Note that in this calculation, the material costs are not taken into account.











5. A customer wants his wig or be reimbursed for his deposit of 20 livres, July 22, 1734

À la requête du sieur Henri Louineau (Luineau), navigateur demeurant rue Sous-le-Fort à Québec, assignation du sieur Baria, maître perruquier demeurant à Québec, afin qu'il livre au demandeur une perruque que celui-ci lui soit donné à faire, ou qu'il lui-même paie la somme de 20 livres, et le demandeur offrant de payer à Baria la façon [fabrication] de ladite pérruque, suivant le marché conclu précédemment, avec dépens

''At the request of Mr. Henri Louineau (Luineau), navigator living on rue Sous-le-Fort in Quebec, summons by Mr. Baria, master wig maker living in Quebec, to have the wig be delivered to the applicant given to do, or that he himself pays the sum of 20 pounds, and the plaintiff offering to pay to Baria the way [manufacture] of the said wig, according to the contract concluded previously, with costs ''

The navigator Henri Louineau has already paid the wigmaker 20 livres and he offers to pay it the way (the archivists have translated by manufacturing, I see it more as the styling of the wig but I can be wrong). In this way, the customer would have paid for the manufacture of the wig but it is not arranged, accommodated yet and the customer offers to the wig maker Baria to pay this part of the market to receive a wig to his liking.













6. A wig maker wants to be reimbursed for a beard and wig made to a man before he died, November 22, 1729

Sentence dans le procès de Charles Prieur, maître perruquier à Québec, contre Henri Hiché, tuteur du mineur Desrosiers (Desguerrois dit Desrosiers), petit-fils de maître Florent de La Cetière (Lacetière) et de Jeanne Pluchon, demandeur demandeur 35 livres et 11 sols pour une perruque et une barbe achetées par ledit défunt de La Cetière, et le tribunal déclarant qu'il y a prescription dans la demande, et renvoyé l'action au demandeur, avec dépens

'' Sentencing in the trial of Charles Prieur, master wig maker in Quebec, against Henri Hiché, tutor of the miner Desrosiers (Desguerrois dit Desrosiers), grandson of master Florent de La Cetière (Lacetière) and Jeanne Pluchon, plaintiff plaintiff 35 livres and 11 sols for a wig and a beard purchased by the said deceased from La Cetière, and the court declaring that there is prescription in the request, and remitted the action to the claimant, with costs ''

What I find interesting here is the confirmation that the wig makers in New France shave the beard, as M. de Garsault describes it in his Art du perruquier  published in 1767. I believe that the beard bought from the wig maker in this document is not a false one because the fashion of the period is a  face freshly shaved. Also, the expression to make the beard means to shave the beard, it is the same with the expression to make the head. In the eighteenth century, there were two trades which included the function of barber: barbers-wigmakers who were less known, and barbers-surgeons.

Chez le perruquier
1861
Artiste: Pierre Théodore Nicolas Maillot
Source: Artnet

Unfortunately, it is impossible to determine the price of the beard and that of the wig.













7.A wig maker wants to be paid for a wig delivered to a passing merchant, July 2, 1742

À la requête du sieur Bonnet, perruquier, domicilié rue Sous-le-Fort à Québec, assignation du sieur Bulteau, marchand demeurant à Contre-Coeur, actuellement domicilié chez le sieur Badeau, rue Saint-Jean à Québec, afin qu'il paie les 6 livres qui restent de la somme de 12 livres due pour l'achat d'une perruque neuve, avec dépens

''At the request of Mr. Bonnet, wig maker, domiciled rue Sous-le-Fort in Quebec, summons of Mr. Bulteau, merchant living in Contre-Coeur, currently domiciled with Mr. Badeau, rue Saint-Jean in Quebec, so that he pays the remaining 6 livres of the amount of 12 livres due for the purchase of a new wig, with costs ''

A 12 pound wig is the most `` affordable '' figure in terms of wigs that I found in this research. A price that perhaps reflects a simpler style for said wig. If we trust the profession of the customer, merchant, it is intended for the bourgeois class. But perhaps also that the merchant wanted to buy a cheaper wig to resell it to Contre-Coeur, who knows?









8. A wig maker wants to be paid for a wig delivered to a baker, February 1, 1751

À la requête du sieur Prieur, maître perruquier de Québec, demeurant rue du Sault-au-Matelot, assignation du sieur Dumas, boulanger, domicilié chez le sieur Chalou, maître boulanger, rue du Sault-au-Matelot, afin qu'il paie au demandeur 12 livres qu'il doit pour une perruque qu'il lui vend et livrée, avec dépens

''At the request of Sieur Prieur, master wigmaker from Quebec, living on rue du Sault-au-Matelot, summons by Sieur Dumas, baker, domiciled with sieur Chalou, master baker, rue du Sault-au-Matelot, so that he pays the plaintiff 12 livres he owes for a wig he sells and delivers to him, with costs ''

Again, 12 livres for a wig that has already been delivered to the customer. A baker, a bread craftsman. I wonder whether bakers are considered bourgeois or locals.









9. A customer requests a special wig, February 13, 1744

Requête entre le sieur Mauger Gadois (Gadois dit Mauger), demeurant à Montréal, stipulant par le sieur Laguerche (Laguerce) fils, voyageur, demeurant en cette charge de son pouvoir daté à Montréal le 20 janvier 1744, comparant par ledit Laguerche, demandeur, contre Pierre Denoyer (Desnoyers), maître perruquier, défendeur; pour lui livrer une perruque à la cavalière de cheveux blonds bien faits, qui sera estimée par 2 maîtres perruquiers et à payer la somme de 10 livres et 15 sols pour un billet; désaccord entre les parties, le défendeur est condamné à livrer 3 perruques et aux dépens liquidés à 10 sols


'' Request between Mr. Mauger Gadois (Gadois dit Mauger), residing in Montreal, stipulating by Mr. Laguerche (Laguerce) son, traveler, residing in this office of his power dated in Montreal on January 20, 1744, appearing by the said Laguerche, plaintiff, against Pierre Denoyer (Desnoyers), master wig maker, defendant; to deliver a wig à la cavalière of well-made blond hair, which will be estimated by 2 master wigmakers and to pay the sum of 10 livres and 15 sols for a ticket; disagreement between the parties, the defendant is ordered to deliver 3 wigs and the costs paid to 10 sols ''

This document is one of the few that specifies the type of wig requested: a blonde hair wig à la cavalière (some translation of the 18th century called it campain wig) I redid an overview of the Art of the wig maker of Mr. de Garsault to know if he mentions this type of wig, unfortunately I found nothing. This is the problem with certain words in the lexical field of old fashion, some can have several meanings (See my articles on "pet-in-the-air" and that on "cadenette") which seem clear and defined at first sight but quickly become more complex during more extensive research.

Thanks to search engines, I found a description of the à la cavalière wig in a 1723 work entitled `` Le Mentor moderne, ou Discours sur les moeurs du siècle. Volume 3 ''. In this section, the authors compare the dress style with the poetic style.

Certaines gens, qui veulent briller que par la beauté de leur visage, consacre tout leur génie dans la Perruque, qui d'ordinaire est comme l'enseigne est comme l'enseignement des sentiments du coeur, & de la profession de ceux, qui la portent. La perruque carrée, qui jette des ondes partagées régulièrement sur les deux côtez (sic) de la poitrine marque un Jurisconsulte ou un Politique. La perruque cavalière, tressée par derrière avec des rubans noirs, caractérise un homme de guerre, ou du moins une âme fière et belliqueuse; et celui qui charge d'une quantité prodigieuse de cheveux blonds qui lui descendent jusqu'à la ceinture, semble déclarer par là qu'il ne songe guére (sic) à embellir le dedans de sa tête. C'est encore d'une manière exactement semblable que chaque poëte (sic) a son goût, & son stile (sic) qui le caractérisent (sic) et qui font voir, souvent malgré lui, son humeur, & son naturel. - pages 197-198-

'' Some people, who want to shine only by the beauty of their face, devote all their genius in the Wig, which usually is like the sign is like the teaching of the feelings of the heart, & of the profession of those, who wear it. The square wig, which sends waves shared regularly on the two sides of the chest marks a Jurisconsult or a Politician. The  à la cavalière wig, braided from behind with black ribbons, characterizes a man of war, or at least a proud and bellicose soul; and the one who loads a prodigious quantity of blond hair which goes down to his belt, seems to declare by that that he does not dream to embellish the inside of his head. It is also in an exactly similar way that each poet has his taste, & his style  which characterize him and which show, often in spite of himself, his mood, & his naturalness. '' pages 197-198

With this definition, the cavalier wig seems to be provided with a cadenette as I defined it in my article on the subject, ie a braid wrapped in a black ribbon, relating to the military world.

Detail of a cadenette
From: Le repas de chasse

Artist: François Boucher

1735
Collection André Meyer

10. A wigmaker client wants to be reimbursed for the failure to deliver a wig with boudins, January 27, 1747

À la requête de Guillaume Deguise dit Flamand, demeurant sur la rue Saint-Jean à Québec, signification d'un accord au sieur Lajoie, perruquier de Québec, et assignation à lui donné afin qu'il paie au demandeur 18 livres comme prix d ' une perruque à boudins payée mais non livrée, avec dépens

'' At the request of Guillaume Deguise dit Flamand, residing on rue Saint-Jean in Québec, service of an agreement with Sieur Lajoie, Québec wig maker, and summons given to him so that he pays the plaintiff 18 livres as a price of a wig with boudins paid but not delivered, with costs ''

With the previous document, they are the only ones that describe a little the type of wig making dispute. What I found as boudins associated with a wig are described in the Methodical Encyclopedia. Mechanical Arts and Crafts, Tome 6 by Jacques Lacombe. See the following image:

Detail of the planck 8
Fig 3 et 4: Inside and outside the square wig
A, the boudin

Encyclopédie méthodique. Arts et Métiers mécaniques
Tome 6
Jacques Lacombe
1782-1791
Source: Gallica

Unfortunately for Guillaume Deguise dit Flamand, his black wig was not delivered ...

11. Two men in conflict for the sale of 7 pounds and 4 ounces of hair, at the rate of 20 livres per pound, November 22, 1723

Arrêt qui déclare Noël Rousseau non recevable en son appel dans son instance avec François Briconnet au sujet de 7 livres 4 onces de cheveux, à raison de 20 livres le livre, vendu par Briçonnet (Brissonnet) à Rousseau

'' Judgment declaring Noël Rousseau inadmissible in his appeal in his proceeding with François Briconnet regarding 7 pounds 4 ounces of hair, at the rate of 20 livres per pounds, sold by Briçonnet (Brissonnet) to Rousseau ''

Unfortunately for me, there is nothing to indicate that this sale of hair was made by wigmakers. This is most likely, in my opinion, but there is no textual confirmation to confirm it.

On the other hand, I can calculate the amount owed by Noël Rousseau to François Briçonnet: 143 livres and 4 sols. It is a considerable sum knowing that the annual salary of a stable boy is estimated between 60 and 66 livres in the middle of the eighteenth century. It's a big sum, no wonder Rousseau tried to appeal in this case.

12. A wig maker sues another wigmaker for the sum of 33 livres for unpaid hair, from December 16 to 22, 1755

Sentence rendue dans le procès entre Laurent Michaud, perruquier de Québec, comparant par maître Decharnay, et le nommé Lasalle, aussi perruquier, le demandeur exigeant du défendeur la somme de 33 livres pour les cheveux qu'il lui-même a vendu et les dépens, et le tribunal condamnant ladite Lasalle à payer au demandeur la somme due et les dépens liquidés à 5 livres, et à exploiter la signification de ladite phrase audit de la peine Lasalle

'' Sentence rendered in the trial between Laurent Michaud, Quebec wig maker, appearing by Maître Decharnay, and the named Lasalle, also wig maker, the plaintiff demanding from the defendant the sum of 33 livres for the hair that he himself sold and costs, and the court ordering said Lasalle to pay the plaintiff the sum due and costs settled at 5 livres, and to exploit the meaning of said sentence in the Lasalle sentence ''

A hair transaction between wig makers! If we rely on the ratio given in the previous document (there is still 32 years difference between the two documents) the wig maker Lasalle would have bought for a pound and ten ounces of hair.

In conclusion, what this research made it possible to confirm: the wigmakers of New France also shaved the beard of their customers, they could exercise several trades (merchant and wigmaker, soldier and wigmaker), they received orders for new wigs and wig repair orders, they used hair for their wigs. Sometimes the wig maker requests a deposit to make the wig, sometimes he delivers a wig without being paid immediately.

Le perruquier fatigué
Giovanni David
1775
National Gallery of Art (NGA), Washington

There are, however, several logistical aspects that remain to be clarified for the wigmakers of New France, especially with regard to the hair used. Did the wigmakers use French networks, those described in the Art du perruquier by M. de Garsault, or did they develop their own network in North America with the famous Native American `` scalps '' .

Mlle Canadienne